David's Restaurant, in Monument Square (Portland, Maine), is one of my favorite places to eat year round;  it's difficult to say why.    Their menu is far from seasonal, their atmosphere is a hit-or-miss,  and my favorite bar tender just left.  Food is often good, but not always great, and service can be sub-par on occasion.  Moreover, their menu has remained relatively static over the years, which by itself is not a problem, except that the restaurant appears to be on a roller-coaster some months.

Last week the food was more than disappointing.  That Friday David's Restaurant was deserted, Neil (executive chef) was missing, and every plate we had tasted simply missed the target.  If it was not for the delicious potatoes, my dry steak - tasting of gas and smothered in gravy - would have gone back to the kitchen. The duck - two ways - was OK (I believe there is only one way to cook a duck), with the confit being wonderful, but the risotto could have been mistaken for a mashed potato.

On the other hand, visiting David's Restaurant the week before last the food was perfect.  We had their BBQ pizza and a few appetizers.  Actually, I should confess, there was one dish that did not work out, it was an attempt at a morrell mushroom tartlet; then again it was the first night they were serving.   But even with no complaints about food, I found the oil-stained floor - near my table - hampered my dining experience, as my left foot constantly drifted off from its resting place.

From my past visits I noticed that the best nights to stay away from David's Restaurant is when.... David is there.   I can almost feel the tension in the dishes as they arrive.  A strange aura of negative energy fills David's Restaurant when the owner is in the kitchen.  Dishes come out looking perfect, but let's not kid ourselves - David's Restaurant is a place to relax, have a drink, and eat good hearty food while being comfortable.  I want my dishes to be relaxed (but well prepared).  If I wanted perfection on my plate, I would be visiting David's 388.

So why is David's Restaurant one of my favorites in Portland?  The people are friendly and tend to recognize regulars. The menu is unpretentious and for every palate.  More importantly to me, however, is that David's Restaurant has not fallen into the, seemingly trendy, way of forcing a meal to travel though starters, first course, second course, and dessert.  At David's you are free to order what works and a descent meal can be  easily under $20 a person or $100 a person, depending on what you might desire.   Some nights we have pizza, other nights a three-course dinner, making David's Restaurant an option each time we go out.